ART + CULTURE

CAFE MARS: A VIBRANT ITALIAN ESCAPE IN THE HEART OF BROOKLYN

A Culinary Odyssey Through Italy's Colors: Cafe Mars Unveils a Dazzling Dining Experience in Brooklyn

04.12.2023
BY PEACHY BECK
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In the heart of Gowanus, Brooklyn, a burst of color and creativity is breathing new life into the culinary scene. Cafe Mars, an Italian eatery masterfully designed by the local architectural visionaries at Format Architecture Office, is redefining the dining experience with its playful atmosphere and homage to Italian roots.

Co-founded by chefs Jorge Olarte and Paul D'Avino, Cafe Mars is not just a restaurant; it's a journey through time and space, tracing its origins back to D'Avino's grandfather, who first set foot in Brooklyn from Campania in 1901. The interior, a spectacle of bright colors, neon lights, and expressive furniture, pays tribute to Italy's rich cultural tapestry, drawing inspiration from the Memphis design movement of the 1980s to the glamour of the Amalfi Coast.


Format's principal and co-founder, Andrew McGee, emphasized the connection between the culinary and spatial experiences, stating, "If the driving force of the menu was to showcase knowledge and love of traditional Italian cuisine, twisted and subverted at just the right moments to create something playfully rebellious and unusual, it seemed only natural to reference the character and movement in [Ettore] Sottsass and the Memphis style."

The entrance itself is a unique experience, requiring visitors to turn a pasta die door handle sourced from local manufacturer D Malardi & Sons, adding a charming nod to the building's pasta factory and Italian grocery history.


Inside the 1,100-square-foot space, a light grey counter with hot pink zig-zag-legged custom chairs by Studio Apotroes welcomes diners. The vibrant atmosphere continues with white-detailed seats facing the kitchen, a bright green shelving unit for tableware, and custom double-sided banquettes in alternating yellow and white. Arched yellow panels with circular holes expose original brick walls, complemented by Stuff by Andrew Neyer globe pendants above each table.

The "blue room" at the back features cobalt-colored seating against exposed brick walls, black window frames, and white hexagonal floor tiles. Hot pink accents in pendant lights with MushLume shades made from mushroom mycelium add a touch of whimsy, while bespoke wooden tables with puzzle-piece tops offer versatile configurations.


As night falls, the restaurant transforms into a kaleidoscope of LED lights, matching the neon sign in the window designed by artist Massimo Mongiardo, showcasing the Cafe Mars logo. Mongiardo's pasta shape illustrations are scattered throughout the interior, even finding a place in the bathrooms and on the black-painted roller shutters that envelop the restaurant when closed.

Format's co-founder and principal, Matthew Hettler, describes the design as a delicate balance between fanciful and comforting, transformative and familiar. "The design, however loud, becomes a backdrop for a quality experience, and that is something we are excited about."


Cafe Mars joins the ranks of Brooklyn's evolving culinary landscape, standing alongside other newcomers like Nabila's and Sereneco, each bringing a unique flavor to the borough's diverse palate. Meanwhile, Manhattan continues to see a surge in Italian cuisine with recent additions like Bad Roman and Cucina Alba, showcasing the enduring love for the flavors of Italy in the heart of New York City.

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