Vetements has officially named Guram Gvasalia as its creative director, meaning he is now both the CEO and creative director of the Zürich-based brand.

Guram and his brother Demna Gvasalia collaborated to create Vetements in 2014. Guram handled business and served as CEO, while Demna oversaw the Vetements creative division. Demna joined Balenciaga as creative director in 2015 but stayed at Vetements until 2019 when he departed the company to focus entirely on Balenciaga. 

Since then, Vetements has functioned with a collective credited for its collections — and there have been many of them, ranging from the 100-plus look seasonal releases to the recently formed VTMNTS subsidiary brand of similarly irreverent clothes.

The brand, which means "clothes" in French, was launched in 2014 and gained nearly instant fame after guerilla performances in sex clubs, shopping malls, and restaurants. Its design characteristics, which included oversized hoodies, fetish-inspired elements, deconstructed denim, and sardonic cartoon designs, immediately became a craze.

"Everything has its time. It is time for me to come out," Guram said in a statement. "I took over the brand and chose to jump in as Creative Director of the house from AH22-23." 

 

 

 

 

 

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Debut collection

Vetement's FW22 collection, inspired by opulence and nobility in the burgeoning era of cryptocurrencies, was the first collection under his creative direction, depicted by oversized yet fitted shapes. In an interview with Vogue, Guram discusses the idea for the collection lookbook's money-themed setting, citing 21st-century social media and Bitcoin billionaires. 

"The early 20th century couturiers focused on industry tycoons who made money with oil, real estate, chocolate bars. This collection is pushing to redefine the couture and the savoir-faire for the new era," he comments.

Presented in late November, the collection features coats and jackets that come in boxy styles and are paired with large hoodies and sweatpants. Jersey cloth is used to make tailored suits for a more relaxed look.

Splashes of red and pink serve as highlights, while camo and dollar bill patterns complement the robust designs. Guram also mentioned "digital 3D pattern modifications" to achieve a couture-style hourglass shape in the collection. Long puffer jackets, wide-leg pants, and velour sets round out the collection.

He also dreamed of partnerships with "Star Wars", expanded the brand into food with a trademark burger, developed a second brand Vtmnts, and served as the House spokesman, walking editors and merchants through each season's collection.

According to the Zurich-based fashion house, the 44-piece collection, which includes everything from socks, hats, and backpacks to evening dresses and high heels, is inspired by "the most iconic Vetements pieces and the 'Star Wars' legacy".

 

 

 

 

 

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Fueled by creativity and passion

Guram is now responsible for both the creative and commercial elements of Vetements. It is a decision meant to prove not just that both can coexist but also that creativity isn't confined to individuals with formal training in fashion design, he said in a statement.

"The truth is, creativity is a part of human nature. We all have it. Some are just too scared to channel it 'cause of the society and the boxes most of us are put in since we are kids," he wrote. "We all have our unique sensitivities, and if they're calling to you, let them out!"

His statement went on to say that after years of being the business-oriented brother, he is now ready to openly embrace his creative side. 

"Vetements, since day one, is built on creativity. And I want to make sure that all the young people out there know — you do not need to have rich parents, you do not need an investor, you do not need to sell your soul to big evil corporations — you can make it on your own. You can change your life with your own creativity and passion."