FASHION + WATCHES

SENSATIONAL LOOK OF THE NEW LM PERPETUAL PALLADIUM EDITION

The new limited edition LM Perpetual Palladium showed a new take on the complicated, fragile classic perpetual calendar mechanism.

16.09.2021
BY SYIFA
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Maximilian Büsser or MB&F launched its newest Legacy Machine (LM) Perpetual Palladium Edition in 2021 that came with a sensational look. First launched in 2015, the LM Perpetual collection is the perfect choice for those who love a new take on the complicated, fragile classic perpetual calendar mechanism.

The LM Perpetual has become one of MB&F’s absolute superstars. It was initially made in five different fascinating colors of red gold, platinum, white gold, titanium, and yellow gold.

In 2021, a new limited edition of 25 pieces is added to the collection, crafted in palladium 950 and featuring an aquamarine sunray dial with pale blue, green, and grey colors. The ergonomic corrector pushers first seen on the LM Perpetual EVO variants are also carried over to the new Palladium model.

Palladium is a tough metal to work with; the raw material costs more than gold and platinum today, and it is far more difficult to manufacture than platinum, making these 25 pieces a true challenge to craft.

The subtle aquamarine dial shifts from light blue to grey to pale green, depending on the light. The more ergonomic corrector pushers initially seen on the LM Perpetual EVO variants have been carried over to this new edition, as well as a darker movement finish on the back for extra contrast.

The Legacy Machine Perpetual has got many recognitions, one of which is the Best Calendar Watch Prize at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) 2016.

 

The beginning

Perpetual Palladium
Courtesy of MB&F

 

MB&F and independent Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell have fully reimagined the perpetual calendar, the most classic horological complications. Legacy Machine Perpetual is the result, and it features a visually spectacular in-house movement created from the ground up to remove the flaws of traditional perpetual calendars.

One of the numerous advantages of the new movement, controlled by a mechanical processor, is that the new complication looks fantastic and can be completely appreciated dial-side.

The LM Perpetual includes a completely integrated 581-component caliber movement with a groundbreaking new system for computing the number of days in each month (no module, no base movement).

It also reinterprets the aesthetics of the perpetual calendar holistically by displaying the entire complication on a dial-free display beneath a stunning suspended balance.

The Perpetual Calendar

Perpetual Palladium
Courtesy of MB&F

The perpetual calendar is one of the great traditional complications, calculating the apparently random complexity of the varying numbers of days each month—including the 29 days in February during leap years.

Traditional perpetual calendars, on the other hand, have a few flaws: dates can skip; they are reasonably easy to damage if altered while the date is changing, and complexities are typically compromises of modules driven by base movements.

No More Issues

Perpetual Paladium
Courtesy of MB&F

Legacy Machine Perpetual's fully integrated, the purpose-built movement has been created from the ground up for trouble-free operation: no more skipping dates or jamming gears, and the adjuster pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes, so there are no issues there too.

Traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms default to a 31-day month and “delete” redundant dates for months with fewer days—by fast-forwarding past the redundant dates during the changeover. A typical perpetual calendar that changes from February 28 to March 1 quickly scrolls over the 29th, 30th, and 31st to get at the 1st.

By adopting a "mechanical processor" instead of the usual space-consuming grand levier (large lever) system design, LM Perpetual flips the classic perpetual calendar system on its head. The mechanical processor uses a 28-day month by default and adds extra days as needed.

LM Perpetual includes a dedicated quickset pusher to modify the year, whereas standard perpetual calendars need scrolling through up to 47 months to set the leap year.

The elegant mechanical brilliance of the LM Perpetual steals the show with its open dial showing the whole complication and suspended balance. That eye-catching balance hovering on high is connected to the escapement on the back of the movement by what is likely the world's longest balance staff, in an interesting technical twist.

The subdials appear to "float" above the movement, with no visible attachments, thanks to a unique technology created specifically for Legacy Machine Perpetual. The skeletonized subdials are supported by hidden studs, which is impossible with standard perpetual calendar mechanisms since they obstruct the grand levier's movement.

Perpetual Palladium
Courtesy of MB&F

Specifications

Legacy Machine Perpetual is available:

  • in platinum 950 with a blue face (limited to 25 pieces);
  • in 18k red gold with grey face (limited to 25 pieces);
  • in 18k white gold with purple face (limited to 25 pieces);
  • in 18k white gold with the dark grey face; in grade 5 titanium with green face (limited to 50 pieces);
  • in 18k yellow gold with a blue face (limited to 25 pieces); in palladium 950 with aquamarine face (limited to 25 pieces).

Engine

Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels.

Bespoke 14 mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout 19th-century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.

  • Power reserve: 72 hours
  • Balance frequency: 18,000bph / 2.5Hz
  • Number of components: 581
  • Number of jewels: 41

Case

  • Material: 18k 5N+ red gold, 18k white gold, 18k 3N yellow gold, platinum 950, grade 5 titanium, or palladium 950.
  • Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
  • Number of components: 69 components
  • Water resistance: 30 m / 90’ / 3 ATM

Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.

Strap and Buckle: black, grey, brown, or blue hand-stitched alligator strap with gold/platinum/titanium folding buckle matching case material.

The retail price of the LM Perpetual Palladium is USD 206.000/EUR 165.000 +VAT or around Rp2,9 billion.

#THE S MEDIA #Media Milenial #MB&F #Legacy Machine #LM Perpetual Palladium

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