FASHION + WATCHES

MB&F COLLABORATES WITH BULGARI TO PRESENT FLYINGT ALLEGRA

The collaboration of two well-known brands MB&F and Bulgari to create an iconic watch for women.

03.12.2021
BY A. NUGROHO
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The collaboration between the two brands in the fashion world is something special. Two brands that create a product must bring together their own identity and characteristics that cannot be separated from the value of each brand. 

The luxury watch brand MB&F and the well-known Italian jewelry brand Bulgari did precisely just that with their LM FlyingT Allegra. It came to existence thanks to the friendship of Maximilian Busser, founder of MB&F, with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Executive Director of Bulgari. The two decided to present a genuinely fantastic product for the size of a watch through this unique model. The result is seen as a combination of MB&F's watchmaking expertise and the use of bright colors from Bulgarian jewelry.

The standard model MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT first arrived in 2019 to cater to the women's watch line. T represents Tiffany, the name of Busser's wife, and the driving engine's code, namely the flying tourbillon.

 

 
 
 
 
 
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A post shared by MB&F (@mbandf)


It incorporates precious stones such as tourmaline, tsavorite, amethyst, tanzanite, and, depending on the version, topaz or rubellite in a snow-setting of diamonds. The sapphire dome houses a towering movement topped with a flying tourbillon and a power reserve of 100 hours.

The product introduced at Dubai Watch Week 2021 is likely the most luxurious version of the FlyingT. While the original FlyingT watches had a more or less conventional case shape-round with extended lugs, the FlyingT Allegra has shorter lugs that are almost hidden under the edge of the case.

The movement is self-winding, with a sun-motif, an entire diameter winding rotor, and the train components are arranged vertically, with the flying tourbillon and balance at the top. The dial is set at an angle, at about the six o'clock position, and angled so that it is only legible to the wearer.

The movement is vertically built along a central axis, orchestrating the overall architecture of the entire visible mechanism. In this respect, the watch deliberately goes against tradition since everything usually hidden is highlighted here in a three-dimensional construction. 

The upper end of the axis carries the diamond-set flying tourbillon and the balance, a vibrant technical organ against which the hours and minutes dial is set at a 50-degree angle, precisely defined so that the owner is the only one who can read the time. 

The case-back reveals the sun-shaped oscillating weight: its gold sandblasted rays rotate on the ruthenium disc positioned above a platinum counterweight.

Between the regulating organ and the rotor, the barrel ensures a highly generous 100-hour power reserve made possible by reducing the number of gears. A sapphire crystal dome tops this three-dimensional assembly, beneath which one can admire the organic life of the movement.

In contrast to the conventional codes of high jewelry, Bulgari has always favored colored stones rather than diamonds alone. Colored gems enable the Rome-based Maison to create authentic compositions through a gradual process of achieving harmony and chromatic power adapted to the model's design. The cut is vital, and Bulgari favors the cabochon, which ensures extreme clarity of the stone while emphasizing the luxury of the creation. The cabochon cut perfectly matches the FlyingT Allegra's round and luxuriant case.

This exceptional partnership goes far beyond the realm of the complicated feminine jewelry watch. It highlights two visions of the world, two interpretations of creativity that are radically different in form yet merge in substance within an integrated and harmonious co-creation, vividly demonstrating the power of two.

Dimensions are at 39mm x 20mm in height, which is almost identical to the original versions at 38.5mm. The watch will be a limited edition of 20 pieces in white gold and 20 in red gold. The price at launch is $185,000, or around Rp 2.6 billion.

 

 
 
 
 
 
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Case

Material: 18K white or red gold, set with diamonds.

High domed sapphire crystal on top with anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire crystal on back.

Dimensions: 39 x 20mm.

Number of components: 17.

Water resistance: 3ATM / 30m / 90’.

Stones 

For the white gold version:

• Brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and crowns: ~ 0.24ct

• Brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and buckle: ~ 2.80cts

• 3 tsavorites square, pear and round: ~ 1.33cts

• 1 oval topaz: ~ 0.71ct

• 1 oval amethyst: ~ 0.4ct

• 1 round tanzanite: ~ 0.43ct

• 1 round tourmaline: ~ 0.06ct

For the rose gold version:

• Brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and crowns: ~ 0.24ct

• Brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and buckle: ~ 2.80cts

• 2 tsavorite square and round: ~ 0.38ct

• 2 tourmaline oval and round: ~ 0.64ct

• 1 oval tanzanite: ~ 0.47ct

• 1 pear amethyst: ~ 0.70ct

• 1 round rubellite: ~ 0.39ct

Strap & buckle

Alligator leather strap with white or rose gold pin buckle matching the case.

 

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